Seligenstadt

 

Seligenstadt is over 1,900 years of history and charmingly situated on the Main River. It is a traditional and picturesque town: richly decorated timber-framed houses in the Main-Franconian style. Ancient buildings dated from 9^th, 11^th century remain and stand as witnesses of history. They are the former Benedictine abbey with itsuniquely beautiful monastery garden, Einhard Basilica, the ruins of Emperor Barbarossa's imperial palace, the Romanesque House, the Einhard House and the Neoclassical town hall.

Jane (Duong) and Matthias picked me up from Sabrina’s place. In the car they figured out to have breakfast at the Kloster (Monastery) of Seligenstadt. The former Benedictine Abbey of Seligenstadt was founded in 828 by Einhard (advisor to Charlemagne). Within the abbey walls and with the provision of water, mill and garden, the monks could provide themselves with everything that was necessary to live. The garden is filled with flowers, herbs and small fruit trees. Various species of apple and pear are grown.

The original structure of the former Benedictine abbey was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War (1618 – 1648). The monastery was rebuilt in Baroque style and maintained well throughout the centuries. It was secularized in 1803 but is maintained today as a cultural monument.

By chance, the monastery’s bakery (Klosterbackstube) was opened (Thursday). Staff showed the stone oven and explained the baking process. Visitors could buy fresh bread on site. Breakfast at the cafe was a big feast. Food quality was good.

The Church of St. Marcellinus and Peter, colloquially known as the Einhard Basilica was originally the church of Seligenstadt Abbey and became a parish church after the abbey 's secularization. 

Around 830, Einhard began the construction of this Carolingian basilica, whose original nave has been preserved to this day. It was built as a pilgrimage church, housing the relics of the martyrs Marcellinus and Peter. Since the 13th century, the basilica has undergone numerous structural alterations. In the last century, the Einhard Basilica was extensively restored, with the aim of returning it as closely as possible to its Carolingian architectural style. 

The Romanische Palatium (Romanesque Palace), is a remarkable 12th-century Staufer-era imperial palace ruin. A ‘palace’ is a fortified complex that can include reception rooms, living quarters, a palace chapel, a farmyard, and possibly a keep. 

The history of German imperial palaces begins in the 8th century under Charlemagne and reached its zenith under the Hohenstaufen dynasty in the 12th century. Palaces were built in all parts of the empire. They served as the court of German kings and emperors, who at that time did not rule from a central, fixed residence, but exercised their power personally on site. Emperors traveled around for food and reinforced the territorial claims for economic stability and political cohesion.

From the 13th century onward, with the rise of the territorial princes, the decline of the German imperial palaces began. They were replaced by the territorial residences and the imperial cities as meeting places. The Archbishop of Mainz laid claim to the settlement outside the monastery gates, a settlement previously supported by the Hohenstaufen kings. The palace was severely damaged by fire around 1235, possibly a consequence of this conflict. Under Emperor Frederick II, the building was repaired one last time and partially modernized in the style of the time. However, with the strengthening of Mainz's power in Seligenstadt, the royal palace lost its significance and was used as a quarry. In 1463, the facade wall was incorporated into the city wall. Excavation in the 19^th and 20^th centuries uncovered the historic treasure.

The Romanesque House (“domus lapidea”, also called the Stone House ) is the oldest secular building in the town of Seligenstadt. It was built between 1186 and 1187 as a residence in the Romanesque style. It is assumed that the building served as a Vogtei, as the official residence of a Vogt (administrator) of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. The arched windows and doors are beautiful and adorable.

In comparison to the ubiquitous timber-framed houses, building stone houses was extremely expensive. Only high-ranking officials, such as bishops, abbots, bailiffs or mayors could afford the cost in return for higher security, permanence, prestige and authority.  Following successful restoration by the city in 1986, the Romanesque House received the Hessian State Heritage Preservation Prize.

Abbot’s chauffeur house

The wealthy / prominent people were really rich. The 16th-century house above once belonged to the abbot’s personal driver. Even the abbot’s chauffeur was given his own house in the town centre. 

The Einhard House is located on the market square of Seligenstadt, the town of Einhard. Built in 1596, it is the oldest house in the town. A striking feature is the oriel window on an octagonal stone console. Beneath the roof of the oriel, a head peers out from a small, round window which is believed to be Einhard, the founder of Seligenstadt.

The Steinheimer Tor is the only remaining city gate in Seligenstadt. One will easily pass it when walking into the centre from the car park on the outskirts or one of the access roads. The gate’s massive stonework and graceful proportions display centuries of craftsmanship and remain superbly preserved. Rising proudly along the former city wall, the tower commands views from numerous vantage points and still shapes the town’s skyline.

Seligenstadt is a charming town. Historic timber-framed houses are in a good state. Thanks to the state and associations - residents of timber-framed houses in Seligenstadt can receive subsidies for house restoration, provided the building is recognized as a listed monument (Kulturdenkmal) or located within an Architectural Conservation Area (Erhaltungssatzung). Applications must be submitted to the Einhardstadt Seligenstadt before restoration work begins. Renovations must adhere to the city's design guidelines (Gestaltungssatzung) and technical standards. Besides, they can apply for low-interest loan or grant for energetic upgrades (e.g. specialized facade insulation, windows, or heating systems) or for individual measures (e.g., thermal insulation, new windows, or energy-efficient lighting)

We passed by a house without an exterior wall and but the building materials: timber, straw bale and bricks exposed.  Matthias explained that the straw bale infill was for energy efficiency, ventilation and insulation.

Going back home and preparing this post, I suddenly noticed that Sabrina brought me to Seligenstadt on a winter day 21 years ago. Besides the abbey I took the same photo of the Apotheke signage (Aushängeschild) and was wandering around Bäckerei Haas near the Steinheimer Tor.