Frankfurt am Main
My first visit to
Frankfurt dated 1991. My friends and I had a 6-week tour in various European
cities. Frankfurt was a two-day visit. Programmes for both days: museum. I went
to Heidelberg on
the second day. So, my impression and memories of Frankfurt were very shallow.
Throughout the years, I came again for work and visiting friends in between but
had no chance for sightseeing.
In mid-April 2026, I returned to Frankfurt to visit ex-colleagues
and friends. My ex-colleagues, Jörg and Sabrina, prepared a nice surprise for
me. They took me around to see the revived old town of Frankfurt. Many Fachwerkhäuser
(half-timber houses) were damaged / destroyed during the Second World War. Römer
remained but many others disappeared. The old town centre was filled with the tasteless Technical Town Hall and used as a car
park. A renewal project was undertaken to reconstruct old houses in the
original style and a few new buildings harmonious to the old ones. Information
in this post is a combination of internet search and Jörg’s advice. Yes, he
knows everything 😊
A renewal project of the Eastend took place prior to the
inauguration of the ECB headquarters. Since the move of ECB, Frankfurt Ost
booms and becomes alive. Shops and restaurants dot the area. It is well
connected with RB trains and U-Bahn. Construction of new apartments never stops.
Still, increased supply does not cut the price / rent down. People are still
flocking to the area for the good living standard. I would like to have an
apartment facing the River Main too.
With fantastic weather we strolled along the River Main slowly. Blue sky, bridges of different styles, materials and periods, old and new buildings composed soothing and beautiful scenes. My old impression of the River Main was limited to the Museumsurfer. This part was new to me and fascinating.
In less than 30 minutes, we arrived at the new old town (Neue
AltStadt). The brick red Cathedral, Imperial Dome of Saint Bartholomew /
Kaiserdom St Bartholomäus, was the first eye-catching icon. Frankfurt Cathedral
became the main election and coronation church of the Holy Roman Empire after
the Golden Bull of 1356. It was the main election site between 1562 and 1792.
The emperors-elected were crowned there. The new ruler was then processed to
the Römer, Frankfurt’s city hall, for the ceremonial banquet and imperial
rites.
Very close to the iconic Cathedral is the Römerberg. Can you imagine that the area was mostly destroyed during the WWII? Historically, the quarter was filled with beautiful houses of different architectural styles. The picturesque buildings and alleys were gone with the bombs.
The area was rebuilt and dominated by a dull Technical Town Hall. An underground car park was built under the Römerberg square, and on top of the Römerberg area, in front of the cathedral. Fortunately, the town management decided to reconstruct the old town as the original plans (Dom-Römer project, 2012–2018).
A series of display boards showcase the look of the old town before the war and the first reconstruction with the Technical Town Hall and car parks. The surrounding was crowded, shady and living standard poor.
15 existing buildings were reconstructed and 20 new ones were introduced, but incorporated the typical style elements of the old town. Particular attention was paid to making sure they mimicked the historical structures, to blend harmoniously into the quarter. The bright new old town looks marvelous.
Römer, the historic city hall (Rathaus) complex in Frankfurt am
Main, was heavily damaged during Allied bombing raids. Only some outer walls
and parts of the roof structure withstood the initial attack. Its important
role as the coronation banquet for the emperors and as the city’s landmark
earned a higher priority for recovery. After the war, the original 15th-century
Römer was painstakingly restored and re-inaugurated in 1955.
The main historical site directly next to the Haus zur Goldenen Waage in Frankfurt is the Archaeological Garden (Archäologischer Garten), which preserves remains of the Roman settlement on Cathedral Hill and the Carolingian Royal Palace.
The Archaeological Garden was completely
revamped. Before, it was exposed in the open air. Tramp and drug addicts dotted
the Garden. The place was dirty and not safe. It is now protected and
integrated into the modern Stadthaus am Markt, allowing visitors to
explore Roman, Carolingian, and medieval remains in a sheltered environment
while also serving as a venue for cultural events.
The Frankfurter Kunstverein is a modern
institution housed in a reconstructed building to reflect its historical,
pre-WWII footprint. The Kunstverein is an exhibition space for contemporary
art, focusing on the intersections of art, science, and society. On the ground
floor is Café Bistro Troisi.
The Wertheim House (Haus Wertheym) is the oldest (around 1600) and
only timber-frame house (Renaissance-style) in the old town surviving the
Allied bombing raids due to fire department intervention. Then it served,
amongst other things, department store, customs house and quarters for the
Frankfurt City Guard. The house is a listed building. Nowadays, it houses a traditional German restaurant.
Then we were back to the River Main, walked along the river bank. We passed by old Sachsenhausen, a historic, lively district on the south bank of the Main River in Frankfurt, Germany, famous for its traditional apple wine taverns, scenic riverfront museums, and vibrant nightlife. It was in my bucket list. This time, I did not manage to have a in-depth look. Perhaps, next time!
The last surprise of the day was a fabulous cake shop, Café im Liebieghaus, with an antique interior, big courtyard sitting area and enormous garden fully be seated with guests.
It is
self-service. Guests need to queue up to order, pay and bring the food to their
tables. Waiting time can be long. Nice cakes ran out quickly. Jörg and I
preferred the apple cake but it was gone when it was our turn to order. Then
all three of us took the pear torte with coke and alcoholic drinks.
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