Polignano a Mare

 

After our lovely stay in Bari and a few day trips to the surrounding towns, we headed to Polignano a Mare. The train journey takes about 35 minutes. Polignano a Mare attracts countless visitors with its dramatic 20-meter-high limestone cliff above the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic. This charming Puglian town dates to the 4^th century. Polignano a Mare does not only offer historical richness, but also breathtaking coastlines, sea caves, gorgeous beaches / bays for swimming, fabulous cuisine and great hospitality.

After settling our luggage, we went to the Belvedere Terrazza Santo Stefano to have magnificent views of the theatrical limestone cliffs holding hundreds of white buildings on the right side. 

The light is the best at the evening time. Shadow as a result of sunlight directly on top is gone.

A few yachts dotted the opposite side Pietra Piatta, a large section of flat rock. Go there and you can admire the incredible views of the old town sitting perched atop limestone cliffs. Both the day and night views are gorgeous and unforgettable. 

Above are day and night views of the old town from Pietra Piatta. To access it simply follow a small stone staircase (known as ‘Scalinata Volare’ - maps) just behind the statue of Domenico Modugno. A bonus is to appreciate the sunset in the other direction.

Visit to Polignano a Mare is incomplete if one does not see Lama Monachile / Cala Porto, the iconic beach of Polignano a Mare. It is named after its location inside a “lama”, a fjord in the cliff. It tucks between two overhanging rock walls.

The Lama Monachile beach is accessible on foot from the town centre, over the Roman bridge. To avoid crowds, we swam there in the morning. It was quiet and very enjoyable though the water was still cold in late June. To take nice photos, I recommend the golden sunset or night time.

Other vantage points offering photogenic views of Polignano a Mare are Ponte Borbonico and Punto Panoramico Largo Ardito. The bridge connects the two halves of the touristic town. It offers stunning views over Lama Monachile. The immense bridge is iconic on its own. I slipped at the staircase in the night. So, be a bit cautious of your steps there.

Punto Panoramico Largo Ardito is Located at the beginning of Polignano’s lungomare.  This is a wonderful and recently developed viewpoint that looks northward, along a cliff-line. It is where we started the hike to Grotta di Selle, a beautiful natural stone arch over the sea.

Why did we hike to Grotta di Selle?  I was attracted to the site when I saw a photo showing a natural stone arch hanging over a stormy sea in bad weather. The scene is astonishing. Perhaps, it’s also out of a regret that I could not see the landmark Azure Window at Gozo Island of Malta in 2017. The bewondered natural giant stone arch collapsed a few months prior to our visit. The visit of Grotta di Selle was sort of compensation / consolation, though it is not as dramatic as the Azure Window.

The hike is easy. Just head north towards the coast. Start at the Lungomare and go eastward. You will pass by a few beautiful rocky beaches. Some are already occupied with a few crowds and some a bit emptier. Below photo was taken at an inlet as a good protection from waves. Sunbathers and swimmers dotted the place.

Cala Sala is a breathtaking beach captivating visitors with its stunning natural beauty. The beach is framed by steep cliffs and features crystal-clear waters that invite guests to swim or simply relax. The tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for individuals or families seeking a peaceful retreat away from the bustling crowds.

Along the way, you will see an isolated island Isolotto San Paolo with a cross on the hill top. You will be delighted with the gorgeous nature and take some shots to memorise the hike.  

With stops here and there and photo taking, we arrived at the Grotta di Selle in about 2 hours. The sun was over us. The scene was not as solemn as in the bad weather but light and vivid. Just walk over the arch and declare your championship of reaching it. Hurray!

Tourists on quick boats envied that we were on the arch but they could only passed through under it with their boats.

 

Certainly, Polignano a Mare’s high limestone vertical cliffs over the crystal sea is a magnet drawing thousands of visitors to it. But the town is also beautiful on its own. Whitewashed buildings dot the town. Though it has been in existence for thousands of years, its appearance is clean and bright. 

In the night, lights were all up. The locals pay a lot of attention to detail and decorate the town in plenty of string lights, boho lanterns, and unique lighting. All places are cheering up to enhance the delight and charm of this tourist town.

Volare…ohh ohhh…Cantare…ohh ohh ohh ohh…nel blu dipinto di blu, translates to fly and sing in the blue painted blue. The song was written by Domenico Modugno, born and raised in Polignano a Mare. The blue painted blue that Domenico Modugno was inspired by was the sea of Polignano a Mare. A statue of him flying is now dedicated to him in front of Pietra Piatta. It is a popular spot where tourists take shots after shots. 

Continue along the Domenico Modugno seaside walkway, you”ll come across a series of beaches and coves. The first you come across is Spiaggia del Grottone or Grottone beach. It is a natural swimming pool which is created out of rocks where people can jump in and out of the water. 

We headed further to Lido Cala Paura and swam for a short time. Crowds and crowds filled the rocks and water. 

Many restaurants are geared to serve guests with fabulous food. We celebrated my trip partner’s birthday at Mint Cucina Fresca. Both the service and food were great. You will not find meat, pasta and traditional dishes on the menu but food out of creativity and love. The nutritious unique dishes are inspired by the owners’ origins and global exposure. We were advised that ordering a main dish would fill our stomach. A dessert would end the dinner with great satisfaction. To get a table is as easy as sending a message via WhatsApp.