Monopoli

Monopoli is a beautiful seaside town set on the Adriatic coast of Puglia. It has a long stretch of beaches and is rich in history. Whether one seeks for the sun and sea, cultural exploration or culinary delights, Monopoli will satisfy the crave and needs.

 

We chose between Polignano a Mare and Monopoli as our base for the coastal holiday. As the stay coincided with my trip partner’s birthday, we picked Polignano a Mare with an outstanding restaurant (Mint Cucina Fresca) for the birthday celebration and more vibrant night scenes. 

We first deposited our luggage at the BnB (Cà di Rò) in Polignano a Mare, had a quick impression of the town and then took the train to Monopoli around noon. At time, trains were not frequent but the trip took only 5 minutes. From the train station, it’s a bit walk to the historical centre. A guy playing musical instrument welcomed every guest to the town. 

Porto Antico is set in the middle of old town and entered through a small arch. It is a beautiful and authentic harbour with colorful fishing boats (gonzo). The backdrop is white-washed buildings with their intricately shaped balconies, a small lighthouse at one end, the back wall of the castle, and the bell tower of the cathedral. For me, the Martinelli – Meo Evoli Palace is the most outstanding / eye catching jewel of the area. The Neo-Gothic style loggia overlooks the sea with its 8 elegant pointed arches. The palace reminded me of Venice. 

Along the shore, a beautiful promenade, are remnants of the medieval fortification. The most prominent part of the city’s surviving defensive system would be the pentagon-shaped Castle of Charles V (Castello Carlo V). The castle’s structure is the typical pentagonal shape of the 15th Century Spanish fortresses with two main floors. Originally the building was the residence of the city’s highest ranking military personnel but became a prison in the last century. Since the recent refurbishment in 1998 the castle has been used as a conference and exhibition centre.

On the southwestern wall of the castle is a sculptural relief dedicated to the heroism of Monopli’s fishermen. In August 1971, a Greek ferry converted from an oil tanker, Heleanna, caught on fire and sank 15 miles off the coast of Monopoli. With insufficient lifeboats and life jackets on board, the passengers were mostly left behind rather hopelessly. Fortunately, the fishermen of Monopoli rushed to launch their rescue operations. Amazingly, only 24 people perished out of 1174 passengers on board.

Like the entire coastline, there is a decent beach every few minutes in Monopoli. Sandy or rocky, busy or quiet, all with gorgeous turquoise color. Cala Porta Vecchia is the closest beach to the historical centre in Monopoli. It is located near the defensive walls of the sixteenth century. This makes Cala Porta Vecchia beach an excellent choice for those who prefer to stay at Monopoli. The sea of Cala Porta Vecchia beach is characterized by mainly sandy bottom and not very deep waters. It is an ideal beach for families.

We went further south to see the other fabulous beaches. They are so gorgeous and prompted us to jump into the crystal-clear water. As a cleaning lady was working in our room, we were forced to leave quick and not able to take our swimming gear.  The nicer the scenery and water, the bigger the grievance from my partner. 

PortoBianco is one of Monopoli's most enchanting beaches, located in a small cove that offers a quiet and picturesque retreat. It is characterized by fine sand and transparent waters, with cliffs that create a breathtaking natural frame. It is a perfect place for a relaxing day at the seaside. 

After admiring the stunning beaches with amazing blue sky and water, we slowly headed back to the town. The skyline is breathtaking. The Cathedral of Monopoli stands out as an adorned gem amidst the homes and palazzi of the narrow streets. Its facade rises above the other buildings and is flanked by its tall bell tower. 

The original church was built in the 11th century on the site of a decayed Roman temple. It was constructed in Romanesque style but never fully completed as it lacked the roof beam. Legend holds that in December 1117 a raft drifted ashore at the harbour with an icon of the Madonna on it. The beams and wood of the raft were used for the completion of the church, which was dedicated to the icon to be called the Madonna della Madia. A few paintings in the cathedral memorise the legend. 

The church was rebuilt starting in 1742 and completed in 1772 in neoclassical style. Though some Romanesque elements are retained, it is of the Puglia flair for Baroque. The interior is magnificently embellished with a collection of paintings by Palma il Giovane and Francesco De Mura. The Byzantine icon of the Madonna della Madia is there to recall the legend. Also beautiful is the baroque wall adjacent to the facade of the church with 10 statues. 

At our time, the church was prepared for a wedding. Wedding souvenirs were placed on the pews. A tenor singer with female backing singers were rehearsing inside the cathedral. The sing was beautiful and enlightening.

About a dozen churches of varying size and splendor are dotted across the neighborhood. Among them, is the humble Chapel of Saint Vitus the Martyr. The dignified stone facade of the church has been eroded by centuries of salted marine air. The chapel is closed to the general public but is one of the most photographed churches in town. 

No one will miss the Church of Jesus the Savior with bright appearance.  A simple façade and a low tower locating at prominent place. Sadly, it was closed at time of our visit. If not, I would have shown some photos of the interior. 

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi is the town centre. Lined with restaurants and bars, it has a nice vibe. There stands the civic tower that incorporates the “colonna infame or pillory” of the 16^th century which was once a significant reference point for local sailors. The centerpiece of the tower is a clock.

 

If you love gelato, be sure not to miss out Café Roma. The ice cream is wonderfully great and price is unbeatable, the lowest in our Puglia trip and the best quality. It is located at Largo Vescovado, west of Cala Porta Vecchia. 

Our half day in Monopoli was very enjoyable. The town with the whitewashed historical buildings and a few tourists made the day very relaxing. Yes, the beaches were fuller but it was still fine. The turquoise and transparent water was magnificent. Just be sure to take your swimwear.