Hue - Khai Dinh Tomb 順化 啟定皇陵


Khai Dinh’s reign lasted only 9 years but the construction of his mausoleum took 11 years. He was the puppet of the French, did not have any significant political achievements but lived a luxurious life with heavy tax on the citizens. To build his dreamy tomb, he increased 30% of the taxation.  Obviously, he was not welcome by his people.  His successor said, “I would rather be a civilian than an emperor without power." It is a big sigh for the unfortunate and poor king.


Khai Dinh Mausoleum is the smallest but most exquisite among all Nguyen royal tombs. The architecture combines the cultural characteristics of France and Vietnam. It is designed as a European castle of middle ages. The main constructions are arranged on a straight axis and distributed on five gradually terraces which are connected by 127 steps. French materials of the time such as cement, iron, steel and ardoise tile associated with Vietnamese traditional materials such as a mortar and terra-cotta were used. The exterior is low key and mysterious. The interior is flamboyant and magnificent. It becomes one of the most important monuments in Vietnam.


At the entrance of the second floor is a forecourt with two rows of animals, mandarins and soldiers. They guard the Emperor's Mausoleum for centuries. Those short-skinned, bare-footed soldiers are imperial guards. The other wearing boots and jerseys are mandarins.



In the middle of the forecourt stands the octagonal stele pavilion made of reinforced concrete.  It commemorates Khai Dinh’s life and accomplishments. 



Another flight of stairs takes you to the apex of the entire tomb complex, the elaborate Thien Dinh Palace. Compared to the gray grimness of the rest of the tomb, Thien Dinh Palace looks gaudy and bright. The exterior is decorated in a flowery show of glass and porcelain that can best be described as “baroque”; the interior is no less gaudy. The ceiling bears nine painted dragons flying amidst the clouds. The walls are decorated with bits of porcelain and glass.





The left and right rows now houses an exhibit of the Emperor Khai Dinh’s personal effects, including a gold chair, photographs of the Emperor’s life and times, and a rather martial-looking statue of the Emperor standing like a conqueror.



The highlight of the visit is the emperor's crypt. A life-size bronze statue of the enthroned Emperor Khai Dinh sits under a concrete canopy decorated with a ceramic-and-glass mosaic. The emperor awe visitors with this splendid (in another perspective, perhaps kitsch) scene.  








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