Passau - Part 2

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Picturesque Inn Promenade

After descending from the Veste Oberhaus, we strolled leisurely at the Innpromenade. Some people clustered at the tip of the esplanade to chat and enjoyed the warm sunshine. But it was empty along the walkway. For us, beauty, romance and soothing tranquility with enchanting evening light. The promenade is filled with emerald green (from River Inn and the surrounding) and dotted with nice houses.





St. Stephen’s Cathedral with the Biggest Organ in the World

St. Stephen's Cathedral dominates the Innpromenade. The white façade facing the Innpromenade is immense and stunning. It has three white towers with blue-green domes. After the devastating fire in 1662, the Baroque cathedral was almost completely burnt down, but luckily resurrected by the famous architect Carlo Lurago. The interior with heavy baroque stucco was decorated by Giovanni Battista Carlone, an artist for paintings and frescoes.

 

The ornately interior holds an exceptional treasure: the biggest cathedral organ in the world. Regular concerts are held at noon between May and October, once a month Thur. 7:30 p.m.  and Advent: Wednesday - Saturday - at noon. 

The facade harmoniously combines Gothic and Baroque elements. Inside, visitors will be fascinated by the magnificent stucco work, the frescoes and the numerous altars. 

Blue New Episcopal Residence

Nearby the Cathedral stands the blue-painted facade Baroque Neue Bischöflich Residenz (New Episcopal Residence), the former palace of the Prince-Bishops of Passau. Inside are a gorgeous Rococo staircase and frescoes. The New Episcopal Residence was secularized in the early 19th century. Visitors can admire the striking exterior or join guided tours that includes the cathedral and square.

Old Town Hall

Built in Venetian style, the Old Town Hall is one of the most prominent buildings in Passau. Fires in 1662 and 1680 necessitated reconstruction, led also by the same masters of the Cathedral reconstruction. The Old Town Hall consists of one large Council Chamber (Großer Rathaussaal) and one smaller Council Chamber (kleiner Rathaussaal) with beautiful paintings. The 38 meters high tower is a striking attraction.

 

Mariahilf 

The next day, after a sumptuous breakfast with fantastic panoramic views at Café Diwan, we crossed the River Inn to ascend to the Pilgrimage Church of Mariahilf and the adjacent St. Paul Monastery via streets and buildings instead of the dedicated covered stairway with 321 steps. 

 

Cathedral Dean Marquard von Schwendi visioned the Virgin Mary in the 1620s. He moved a copy of the saint painted by Lucas Cranach to the hill and opened it to the public. It drew a massive influx of pilgrims which prompted the construction of the church and adjoining monastery complex to serve them. The monastery was initially run by the Capuchin monks but switched to Pauline Fathers since 2002.

Inside the pilgrim church are a magnificent Baroque high altar showcasing the copy of the Virgin Mary and baby Christ, "Imperial Chandelier" (Kaiserampel) and a masterful goldsmith piece crafted in 1676. The original Virgin Mary and baby Christ from Lucas Cranach is in the Jakobskirche in Innsbruck. 

Outside the church are a graveyard, serene garden with pink magnolia, white flowers and various plants. The highlight of the visit was definitely the breathtaking views of Passau and Veste Oberhaus sitting atop opposite the river.



We left the pilgrim church via the pilgrim steps. You can see that the stairway is steep. Walking down makes life easier and can still appreciate the religious articles on both sides. 

Instagramable Schiblingsturm with Evolving Roles

Our last sightseeing point was the Schaiblingsturm which my partner took a photo decades ago. The marked round tower with its pointed roof is a popular photo spot. It now belongs to the secondary school Leopoldinum and is used for workshops only a few times a year. 

Over the centuries, the Schaiblingsturm served as a defensive tower, storage space, mooring point and accommodation.

Passau is enchanting. Beautiful classic buildings and churches spread throughout the town.  Below are a few of them.

Jesuit Church St. Michael

St. Gertraud Parish Church

A City Worth Returning To

Passau is the kind of city that feels rich even on a short visit. Its fortress, cathedral, river scenery, and compact old town make it ideal for travelers who enjoy architecture, history, and walkable landscapes.

For me, the most memorable part was the combination of beauty and tranquility. Passau is not just a place to pass through on the way to somewhere else; it is a city worth staying for.

Beautiful and gorgeous Passau! Time to say goodbye. We headed back to the mother town of my trip partner, Nürnberg, a beautifully preserved medieval Old Town with an imposing Imperial Castle atop.

 


 


Location: 94 Passau, Germany

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