Giovinazzo

Giovinazzo is on a small peninsula stretching out into the sea. It is a charming medieval village by the Adriatic Sea with a fortified walled port, an imposing Romanesque Cathedral and countless beautiful old monumental churches and palazzo. It is a pleasant leisure to walk along the tiny streets and squares. Every few metres away, one will be astonished by the exquisite buildings. And there aren’t many people. At time of our visit, the crowds were only at restaurants, cafes dotted the places next to the sea. Be sure to make a visit before it gets very popular.

We arrived from Molfetta by train and walked north towards the sea. The first monument in sight is large pink faced Chiesa Sant'Agostino at Via Marconi. It can be seen from everywhere in Giovinazzo. The enormous dome dominates everything. Arches support the structure and with a drum surrounded by windows and pairs of Ionic semi-columns. It ends with a "lantern" on which the cross stands out.

On the way towards the sea, we passed by the town’s square, the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, a large trapezoidal square with a beautiful fountain of Triton in the center of its wide end. The splendid fountain was constructed in 1933. A tree and three daring newts stand on three gushing half-stemmed shells. You shall stop to appreciate the exquisite craftsmanship of the statues over and under the fountain. Underneath the shells are three powerful Telamons support the whole art piece. The craftmanship is highly adorable.

The town square is overseen by the Church of San Domenico on one side and municipal buildings on the other. San Domenico has a majestic and elegant façade, accessible via a double flight of steps. Local stone was used for both elements. Information says that it has beautiful art inside. Unfortunately, the church was closed and sadly all churches were closed on the day that we visited.

On the other side of the town square is the Palazzo del Marchese di Rende (Palace Siciliani Of Rende). The imposing neoclassical style, with Ionic colonnade architecture shines in the square. The architect is Giuseppe Mastropasqua who also designed the dome of the Church of Sant'Agostino (the pink faced church).

Guida Giovinazzo Wiki

Palazzo Saraceno is a beautiful example of 15^th century Renaissance civil art with obvious Catalan influence. The building is full of coat of arms, inscriptions, skirting rusticated and elegant windows. The façade is filled with epigraphs of warning against harms intended to the family and verses from Dante’s Inferno, the family’s desire to show off their cultural depth.

Trajan’s Arch (Arco Traiano) welcomes visitors to the ancient centre (centro historico). It is named after the Emperor who reinforced the defensive walls of the city, the Aragonese tower, the Fort and the Aragon Walls (102 A.D.). The arch itself was built in 14^th century using 2 mile columns of the Roman Trajan way.

Right after the Trajan’s Arch stands the Church of Santa Maria of Constantinople of 16^th century. On the main facade there is a sculpture depicting the Madonna and Child, a statue of Christ the Redeemer and a rose window. To the side of the central façade, there is a niche with the statue of St. Christopher. Next to the church is a characteristic bulb bell tower.

Going further is the co-cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta (Mary's Assumption), built by the Princess Constance of Grance to honor the memory of her husband Bohemond of Altavilla in the Norman period (1150–1180), in characteristic Apulian Romanesque style featuring Eastern and Western elements. Under bishop Paolo De Mercurio (1731–1752) took a thorough Baroque remodeling. Only the crypt and the southern façade remain in Romanesque style.

Next to the Cathedral is the impressive Palazzo Ducale, a 17th-century courtyard building that exhibits its architectural wealth, especially on the façade overlooking the sea near the remains of the Roman walls. The palazzo was constructed of squared stone blocks of different sizes. Its immense size strikes the visitor (70 metres of façade - 60 metres deep - more than 200 rooms and an adjoining garden).

Of the churches, other than the Cathedral, the most significant is La Chiesa del Spirito Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit), built at the end of the 14th century in typical late Romanesque style with three stone cupolas of different heights. Click here to appreciate the exterior and interior of the Church of the Holy Spirit.

Chiesadi San Lorenzo dates back to 1305. Commissioned by the priest Petracco Pavone, it is the smallest church and among the oldest. It has a slightly trapezoidal shape and extends on two fronts. The facade and the internal walls are plastered. The low relief on the left facade of the portal is a perpetual reminder of the infamous martyrdom inflicted on San Lorenzo who was burned alive on a gridiron.

It is a bliss to stroll in the historical centre. Everything could happen. A bride and groom ran along a tiny lane. So romantic!

Like our arrangement in Molfetta in the morning, our last programme in Giovinazzo is a leisure stroll along the seaside. On the left side of the harbour are the mighty Torrione Aragonese, buildings and the stretching Molo de Levante. The sea and sky looked like without an end or limit. Colourful boats add vibrance to the quiet fishing village. If one comes in the early morning, fishermen would be around to unload their catch. The place would be filled with noise. Oh well, it is change of scenes. Vital energy versus tranquility. Why not both?