Bitonto

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Bitonto is an elegant medieval town in the area of Bari with gorgeous monuments dotting the historical town and beautiful renaissance buildings of the 15th-16th century. 

We started our day with a bit gloomy weather and headed to Bitonto. It is about 10 kilometres from Bari. Easy and best to take a train there, about 2 trains per hour. As most of the sightseeing points in Bitonto are opened in the morning and late evening, it’s best to be there around 9 a.m.

The walk from the railway station to the historical centre takes about 10 minutes. The first amazing structure we saw was the imposing entrance door to the historic center, Porta Baresana. The emblematic gate was once connected to the walls defending Bitonto. It is surmounted by a statue of the Immaculate Virgin. The doorway is formed by a round arch with rusticated pilasters on the sides. The modest gate together with the Torre Angioino and the Church of Gaetano offer a pleasant view.

 

At one time, twenty-eight towers stood along the fortifying walls of Bitonto.  Nowadays, the imposing 16-meter-high Torre Angioino (Angevin circular tower) of 14th century is the largest and most impressive among those remaining.  Guests can ascend to the tower for the city views and descend into the dark interior for time-to-time exhibitions housed in the gallery space.

 

In the same square stands the Church of San Gaetano, a Baroque church next to the Loggia of the Renaissance Palazzo Sylos-Calò. San Gaetano was built from 1609 by an architect of the Theatine Order. Previously, a baptistery and a university stood on the site. On the outside, the façade is in ashlar and is preceded by a large staircase, divided into two orders and surmounted by a large tympanum. The most important work inside the church is the ceiling, painted with images of the life of Saint Nicholas and decorated with gold leaf. Unfortunately, the church is often closed.

 

The arched loggia of the Palazzo Sylos-Calo is the largest and most important renaissance residences in the historical centre of Bitonto. The palazzo was constructed in 16th century for a leading local noble Vulpano family. Its imposing gateway features the coat of arms of the Stylos family, later owners of the building. Inside the entrance area is an open colonnaded courtyard with stairs to the upper storeys.

Titian, Poussin, Giuseppe De Nittis

Since 2009, this palazzo has housed one of Puglia's most important art galleries - the Galleria Nazionale di Puglia Girolamo e Rosaria Devanna. The collection is based on the legacy of the wealthy original patrons. Highlights include paintings by El Greco, Velasquez, Poussin. Renaissance works by Negroni, Titian and Veronese are featured. The gallery has collections from 17th to modern eras, including Puglia's own Guisppe de Nittis from nearby Barletta.

It is a great pleasure to walk around the medieval town centre, to watch various elegant buildings and the local residents. Bakeries with wonderful smell of focaccia, cafes and restaurants and all kinds of shops with people moving / busy with stuff.

 

Among the narrow streets we came across a pair of skeletons on the pilasters of Chiesa del Purgatorio. One holds a scythe and the other an hourglass. Above the entrance portal, angels try to snatch the souls of sinners from the flames of hell.

 

The highlight of Bitonto is its enormous Cathedral which is an excellent example of the Apulian Romanesque. The construction of Santa Maria Assunta e San Valentino was conceived in 1080, even before the famous Basilica of San Nicola in Bari. Under its foundations are an early Christian basilica dating back to 6th century and the remains of Greek-Roman houses. It is a masterpiece of art. The exterior is a beautiful calming cathedral of white stone and a delightful simplicity.

 

The west front has three sections, each with a decorated entrance. A rose window is flanked by sculptures of animals on columns. 

Inside the Cathedral are beautiful sculptures and decorations. The most fascinating is a stone-carved ambo, a combination of pulpit and lectern dating from 1229. This piece of marble sculpture features an eagle, various fantastic animals and plants, very dramatic and inspiring. 

The day began with a cloudy sky but we were fortunate to have the sun shining on the Cathedral and the amazing sightseeing points at Piazza Cavour. It was a nice end of visiting Bitonto. Then we proceeded to Ruovo.


Location: 70032 Bitonto, Metropolitan City of Bari, Italy

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