Ostuni

 

Ostuni is a small white-washed hill-crested city lies near the top of the ‘heel’ of Italy’s boot shape in southern Puglia. Perched atop the olive-carpeted hills, Ostuni has long been one of the awe-inspiring sights in Puglia. Known as "La Città Bianca" for its gleaming white buildings, Ostuni's history stretches back over millennia with settlements from ancient tribes. But what visitors can see today dates from between the 1400s and the 1700s. Visitors are impressed with labyrinthine streets, Gothic cathedral and panoramic views that sweep across the countryside to the Adriatic Sea. 

We arrived at Ostuni by train and took a bus to Piazza della Libertá, the heart of the historic centre of Ostuni filled with interesting monuments. The pyramidal obelisk of St. Oronzo, the main protector of the town, stands at over 20 metres high with a figure of the saint at the top looking over the square. 

Dominating the piazza is the Palazzo Municipale, originally an ancient Franciscan monastery built in the Gothic style. In the 19th century the facade was reworked in the Neoclassical style and the building was converted into the town hall. 

Next to the town hall is the Church of St Francis (Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi), originally part of the monastery and reconstructed in the 19th century to harmonise with the ‘new’ town hall. 

Along the way to the historical centre (centro storico) are shops of souvenir, ceramics, olive oil, etc.  Then is the majestic landmark in Ostuni, the Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Duomo / Cathedral. It was built in the 13th century – and rebuilt in the late Gothic Venetian style using Ostunese limestone in the 15th century following an earthquake.

 

With one of the most beautiful facades in the Puglia region, it features a magnificent rose window composed of 24 intricately carved beams, 12 arches embellished with floral motifs. It is the second largest rose window in Europe (behind the Notre Dame in Paris). The interior of the cathedral will impress you with its artwork-covered ceiling and altar. 

In front of the Cathedral is the Scoppa arch, a fascinating structure connecting the Bishop's Palace with the Seminary Palace. The arch, known as “l a Loggia”, is inspired by the Bridge of Sighs in Venice. It was originally built in wood but transformed into stone to ensure greater stability and durability in 1750. The Scoppa arch is beautiful on its own and as a backdrop for taking photos of the architectures nearby.

My partner asked to visit the archaeological museum, ‘Museo de Civiltá Preclassiche della Murgia’. But I said no. If I knew earlier that it displays the skeleton of the oldest mother of the world with its unborn baby, I might have said yes. 

Instead we strolled throughout the white drenched alleys lined with potted plants, stores offering ceramics and jewelry, restaurants and white painted staircases leading to colourful doors.

 

Among the colourful outdoor paintings, the door painting "Portadel Paradiso" (the green and blue “Heaven’s Door” at Via F. Incalzi Antonelli) is the most popular and beloved in Ostuni. It is conveniently located next to Borgo Antico Bistro, offering fantastic panoramic views of the surroundings and always packed with people.

The city walls were originally built as a fortress to defend the town from invading forces. Now, the shining white of the walls contrasts wonderfully with the green of the olive trees and the crystal-clear blue of the Adriatic Sea. The path is dotted with various pieces of art.

It is a must to admire the stunning view of Ostuni! From the Libertá square, take a 15-minute walk via the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel II to the viewpoints. The ‘official’ one is Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe. 

In between, closer to the centre is another one. Views of Ostuni from both viewpoints are fantastic. Extra rewards are the historical buildings along the path.  Together with the amazing views of the white city, making it a highlight of your day in Ostuni. If you stay overnight, go there to enjoy the beautiful sunset for an unforgettable evening.

If you like whitewashed hill towns, consider to visit Locorotondo. It is near Alberobello. It is a good choice to spend the afternoon in Locorotondo after visiting the busy Alberobello in the morning.

Travelling tip:

If you are travelling from Bari by train, opt for "OSTUNI CITTA" instead of "OSTUNI" paying a little extra to cover the bus trip from Ostuni’s railway station to the parking lot right under Piazza della Libertá. It saves the hassle to buy tickets in a rush. We could get on the bus upon arrival into Ostuni. Take a window seat to admire the beauty of Ostuni sitting at the hill top. After getting off the bus, walk across and ascend to Piazza della Libertá via a staircase.