Sarzana

 

Dominated by huge fortresses and the oldest painted wooden cross in Italy, Sarzana is however overlooked by tourists visiting Cinque Terre or Tuscany. It is an important agricultural and commercial centre with an old town that’s full of character.  Dated back to the 11^th century, Sarzana was built by people escaping the nearby marshes growing around the old Roman town of Luni. Its ownership was fought between Pisa, Luca and Florence until it was taken by Genoa in 1572.

On 25^th April 2024, the Liberation Day*, we visited the historical town, Sarzana. We first went to the Porta Romana to explore the way to Fortezza di Sarzanello. The gate is made with Carrara’s white marble by the end of 18^th century. One can ascend to the top to have superb views of the surroundings. Nearby is a popular café, Baci di Dama. We enjoyed the coffee and cakes at the tea time.

*It marks a significant moment in the country’s history. This day commemorates the end of the Nazi occupation and fascist rule during World War II. 

 

On this important public holiday, the Firmafede fortress (also called Cittadella), was also opened in the morning. It is an imposing defensive structure on the edge of the city walls within the historic center of Sarzana. The previous fortress, built by Pisans in the 13^th century, was completely destroyed and rebuilt to the current form. The fortress was used as a police barracks, and until the end of the 1970s a prison.

The main building with its quadrilateral plan has a central keep inside, and is surrounded by a moat and defensive walls. The area of the moat was covered by green pasture. It gave a sense of warm to the greyish building. We went deep down inside the fortress. Wide stone pathways on the four sides were illuminated by dim light. The raw stone walls with the gloomy lights casted a spooky feeling. The floor was a bit wet, caused by the rain probably, through a vertical chimney. A sample of water supply system illustrates how water was collected and distributed. 

Information at the internet mentioned that the MUdeF museum is housed within the fortress. However, it was closed during our visit.

View of Cittadella from Fortezza di Sarzanello

The other fortress, Fortezza di Sarzanello (Fortress of Castruccio Castracani, named after the military leader from Lucca, lived at the manor only for about ten years, 1317- 1328) stands on the top of the Sarzanello hill overlooking the medieval city of Sarzana and the plain of the Val di Magra. 

Like the Cittadella, the Fortezza di Sarzanello was built on a demolished fortress (from the 10^th century) to address the new fortification needs. The main part of the fortification, has a triangular plan with three bastions at the top. A huge ravelin in the form of a triangular fortified embankment stands opposite the castle.

The walk from the town takes less than 20 minutes. Leave the historical town from Porta Romana, then turn left to Via S. Francesco and right to Via Fratta and walk further up to reach the Fortezza di Sarzanello. The climb is not difficult. It worths the effort to enjoy the panoramic views over Sarzana, valley and beautiful surroundings. 

Back to the historical town, in the quiet part of Via Giuseppe Mazzini, stands the parish church of Sant' Andrea, the oldest religious building in the city. It experienced two massive renovations in 12^th and 17^th century. The baptismal font is a masterpiece made with Carrara marble by Giovanni Morelli at the late 16^th century. There are some other admirable sculptures and art pieces.

The Romanesque-Gothic style Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is right at the middle of the original town centre. It was rebuilt over the Gothic church of San Basilio in 1474 and retains the older tower. There's a fine 14th-century door and elaborate carved wooden ceiling by Pietro Giambelli between 1662 and 1670.

The Cross of Maestro Guglielmo (in English: Master William) in the Cathedral of Sarzana (1138) serves as the oldest extant example of a monumental painted panel cross. Jesus is not presented with sufferings but a serene face and wide-opened eyes, a symbol of Christ in triumph and alive. Prepare a small donation to get the art illuminated.

Walk around the interior of the cathedral to appreciate various art pieces. 

A nice surprise when we stepped out of the cathedral: a parade of war vehicles carrying different types soldiers was passing through. Countless and various types of vehicles showcased at the Matteotti Square. An ambulance vehicle stood somewhere with patients and first aid stuff lying on the floor. At another corner, soldiers were holding their food box/trays and lining up for soup and sandwiches, a memory of the war. 

 

Still other surprises and delights: Teatro degli Impavidi, Museo Diocesano and various palazzos opened their doors to welcome the locals and visitors. Everywhere was full of people, to celebrate and rejoice. 

Teatro degli Impavidi brightened our eyes with its velvet red, elegant and beautiful set up. 

Museo Diocesano is housed in the Oratorio della Misericordia, built towards the end of the 1500s. Silver, furnishings, relics and painting are displayed in six rooms. Room five is dedicated to the Domenico Fiasella, the most important local artist of the 17th century. In Room 6, works of painting and sculpture from the Diocese are preserved. The museum is not often opened. Even at their website, it is written ‘Opening hours: call for information’. So, we were very lucky 😊

 

Walking along the main street, Via Giuseppe Mazzini, various palaces showcased eternal film stars and renowned films. A model and video of Marilyn Monroe was shown in the Tusini Palace. Vivid and joyful atmosphere filled the elegant space. Neoclassical style frescoes on the ceiling and walls are beautiful. A statue of Bacchus appreciating grapes stands next to a marble staircase.

Then we were attracted to gorgeous costumes with florals at the front door of the Magni Griffi Palace. This is a building of Renaissance origins, but the present appearance dates from the 18th century. A monumental staircase supported by mighty marble columns won many attractions. Visitors were allowed to visit the atrium. A marble basin with mascaron was along the way. Not sure if it is still used for collecting rainwater or has changed to the modern version. A tree, as tall as the building, stood at the middle of the atrium and provided shade.

 

Back to the living room, display of the film ‘Gone with the Wind’ set in. The kiss between Scarlett O'Hara (VivienLeigh) and Rhett Butler (Clark Gable) is ever-lasting and romantic.

Just a few steps away, we were attracted to Audrey Hepburn’s photos at the entrance of the Picedi Benettini Groppallo Palace. It is distinguished by its main-floor windows topped with typically 16th-century triangular and arched alternating gables. Inside is the spectacular white and grey checkerboard floor. It looks modern. Audrey Hepburn dressed in the costume of Breakfast atTiffiany’s was sitting next to a small table and waving welcome to the visitors. The space was filled with flowers and gladiolus. This flower is often used for the Chinese New Year, denoting rising from a lower to higher position in an organization.

A friend was driving from Milan to pick us up for the next days’ trip. We could only managed to visit the above three palazzos. Not sure what will pop up next year. I wish I would be there again. Who knows?