Coimbra, across River Mondego

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3 April 2012



It was a cloudy day. Our hotel Avenida is close to the railway station. Along the way are beautiful historical buildings. Unfortunately, the sun was hiding, strengthening the melancholy of the country. Unlike Porto, everything relates to tourism is not free. Coimbra Tourist Infomaration is not as generous as Porto to the tourists. Perhaps, it needs money to restore the town and fund the university.


Our activity of the first half day took place at the opposite shore.  A leisure stroll along the river Mondego, across the opposite shore.  The first striking monument is Gothic style Santa Clara-a-Velha, a convent rebuilt for Queen Santa Isabel in 14th century.  Its lower position rendered it to frequent floods and was abandoned in 17th century.  The ruin was excavated in the late 20th century.  After 12 years of restoration it is opened to the public recently. 


We ascended to the convent replacing Santa Clara-a-Velha, the Santa Clara-a-nova, to house the nun in a drier place.  It is large but only a small part was opened to the public.  The baroque church is rich but very dark inside.


Our last activity before dinner is a visit to Quinta das Lagrimas Gardens.  Beside the garden is a hotel under the  “Relais et Chateaux” hotel chain.  The garden is documented since 1326 when the Queen Saint Isabel ordered a new canal to carry water from the springs nearby Convent of Saint Claire.  It witnesses the romantic love between her grandson D. Pedro and Inês de Castro. Inês was connected to the Castilian Royal Family, by illegitimate descent.  King Alfonso IV disliked her.  She was killed by Pêro Coelho, Álvaro Gonçalves, and Diogo Lopes Pacheco.  Pedro executed the killers by ripping out their hearts.  When he became the king, he forced the entire court to swear allegiance to their new queen by kissing the corpse's hand.  Tragedy and scary!
Location: Coimbra, Portugal

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